Once more the delights of budget backpacking were showcased by an evening of minimal sleep. Not only were the kebabs cruelly plotting their revenge in my stomach all night, but i was treated to the live soundtrack of an amorous performance from the restaurant owners upstairs. Enough to put you off your lamb gristle dumplings at breakfast really.
I did, however, manage to find something quasi-edible next to the mosque by the bus station whilst waiting for my departure further west. Obviously it was made of lamb, and bread, and washed down with copious amounts of tea.
“Don’t worry, it’s a good bus – it will get you there no problem”, the hostel girl informed me enigmatically when i told her i was heading for Xining.
In theory, at least, it was indeed a very pleasant vehicle. My ticket declared that it was in fact a “new A *****” bus – yet i suspect it had been given the rating back in 1976 when it first trundled along the bumpy Xinjiang roads.
Quite aside from the usual traits of long distance bus travel (total lack of A/C, faint smell of sick) I was delighted to be awarded with the kind of seat with a life of its own.